Archive for June, 2010
Chinas Xinjiang Autonomous Region
“Hes from Pakistan.”"No no! Hes Japanese.” A lively group of Uyghurs orbiting around me at the Hotan marketplace in southern Xinjiang were vociferously debating the nationality of the 196cm foreigner standing before them.
I am in fact a firstgeneration American of a hybrid ScandinavianMediterraneanHispanic lineage my dark brown features and unkempt travel whiskers often causing confusion amongst Asians who cant quite place my nationality. Ironically Han Chinese often mistook me for a Weiwuerzu someone from Xinjiang.
If there is one province unlike any other in the Peoples Republic it would have to be Xinjiang. Categorically different from the rest of the country in every conceivable way the Muslimdominated Xinjian in the distant northwest is at once Chinas most intriguing and intimidating travel destination.
Xinjiang Autonomous Region is Chinas largest sharing international borders with Pakistan Afghanistan andcentral Asian countries. This geographical proximity resultingly accounts for over half of Chinas 12 million Muslims perhaps Xinjiangs most obvious characteristic Muslim followers of Islam the second largest religion in the world are a devout people who believe in the oneness of God called Allah in Arabic as opposed to the Christian doctrine of a holy trinity. Muslim adherents can be seen throughout Xinjiang carrying venerated copies of the Quran Islamic holy scripture and faithfully dashing off to he mosque five times a day for a congregational series of Meccafacing prostrations and prayer.
Xinjiangs predominant nationality is the Uygur a vibrant and outgoing culture of Central Asian descent whom this writer affectionately likes to refer to as The Desert People. The Turkicspeaking Uyghurs traditionally attire themselves in simple loosefitting robes to accommodate the harsh climate with the men wearing either plain white or brilliantly embroidered dopi skull caps and the women veiling themselves in a hijab headscarf. A shaved head and long beard further distinguishes the Uyghur men while the ladies take pride and pleasure in dyeing their hands red with henna.
Geographically Xinjiang offers starkly different topography and climate throughout the vast region ranging from the cool alpine mountains of the northern Altay region to the arid southern sands of the Taklamakan the second largest desert in the world. And while Urumqi Xinjiangs capital is a gleaming northern metropolis of skyscraprs and department stores the remote cities bordering the southwestern Tarim Basin including the famed Silk Road oasis of Kashgar are known for their more traditional way of Muslim life.
Attractions
Situated directly on the borders of Mongolia Russia and Kazakhstan the spectacularly sapphireblue Hanasi Hu Lake in the mountainous region of northern Xinjiang is a popular tour group destination. To the south the massive Sunday markets in Kashgar and Hotan are not to be missed though the latter is arguably more authentic.
Transportation
1. From Beijing to Urumqi 10 flights daily between 8am and 9pm four hours 2410 yuan
2. To Hanasi Hu a group tour arranged by any Urumqi travel agency is often suggested for its feasibility however a majority of time is spent in transit four days 500 yuan including accommodations and entrance tickets
3. To Kashgar overnight trains leaving daily from Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the most convenient and comfortable way to travel 30 hours 170 yuan.
4. From Kashgar to Hetian busses depart from Renmin Donglu almost hourly between 7am and 6pm eight hours 50 yuan.
Accommodation
Xinjiang disappointingly offers very little as far as budget accommodations or youth hostels and due to immigration from neighboring nations smaller boardinghouses are strict to only allow Chinese nationals. In Kashgar the Uyghurrun Noor Bish Hotel near the famous Id Kah Mosque is a backpackers favorite 30 yuanfor a dorm bed.
Regional cuisine
If China is famous for its cuisine then Xinjiang is responsible for half its success. Heavily seasoned lamb kebab yangrou chuan spicy lamian noodles topped with peppers tomatoes and garlic deepfried fresh fish how did they get fish in the desert? goats head soup golden pilaf rice and fragrant peaches and watermelon all washed down with refreshing cinnamon tea. There may not be as much bread nang in the whole of China as in Kashgar with lightly seasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels being pulled hot out the oven by the minute.
About the writer: China photographer Tom Carter is the author of ‘CHINA: Portrait of a People’ a definitive 600page book of photography coming soon from Hong Kong publisher Blacksmith Books.
Chinas Hainan Island
It is interesting to note that while the island of Hainan in southwest China is the country’s number two holiday ravel destination in between Jiuzhaigou National Park in Sichuan and Yunnan’s Lijiang most foreign tourists and expats living in the People’s Republic have never even heard of Hainan Dao let alone been there I used to be one of the guilty parties. Despite residing in China for an extended period of time it was not until I began my epic travels across the country that I was introduced to what is in fact its smallest yet most exotic province.
Hainan’s most popular season is of course Spring Festival when legions of mainlanders shuddering from subzero winter temperatures spend Chinese New Year on the invitingly temperate beaches of the tropical island.
Conversely sweltering summers turn Hainan into a veritable Hades reclusive sun worshipers take note: you will literally have the beach to yourselves. It is not surprising then that Hang Dynasty exiles were once banished to ‘The Edge of the Earth’ as fatal punishment. Hainan island has made significant progress over the centuries from remote settlement to popular tourist attraction by way of repeatedly falling in and out of control of neighboring provinces until at last being granted provincial status in 1988 disputably along with some 200 surrounding South China Sea islands and declared a Special Economic Zone to spur investment.
Resultingly the colonial capital city of Haikou on the north end of the island has become its commercial center brimming with transportation hubs department stores and enough hotels to accommodate all of China which it literally does during the holidays.
Those wishing to remove themselves from the urban commotion will find rustic serenity on the central coastline around Xiangshui Bay the only traffic being farmers in coned hats and grazing cattle. There crystal waters lap at the shores of a brilliant expanse of sugary sand where one may sip on coconuts feast on fresh seafood and lay undisturbed beneath the whispering palm trees.
For a more cultural experience the lush Limuling mountain range in interior Hainan is home to the island’s reclusive indigenous peoples most notably the Miao and the majority Li minority a colorful ethnicity whose proud elders contine to embrace their traditional customs native dress and intricate body and facial tattooing.
But it is Sanya ‘the Hawaii of the Orient’that is the island’s headlining attraction. Developed along Hainan’s southerniphery the bustling port city is framed by attractive beaches a lively city center teaming with tourists gaudily attired in matching florescent beach wear and a harbor congested with fishing vessels the docks a blur of tangled netting malodorous hauls of fish and salty dogs preparing for their next seafaring voyage.
Beyond the Sanya peninsula Yalong Bay is a remarkable 7km stretch of white beach edged by a citadel of luxury hotels glowing in varying shades of pastel their welltended guests lounging poolside to the soothing sounds of Kenny G on repeat cocktail in hand.
No matter what your tastes ridiculously overpriced or beach bum 1.5 billion people agree Hainan Dao is the tropical escape everyone shohuld treat themselves to at least once during their stay in China.
Tom Carter a freelance writer and photographer from San Francisco has lived in PR China the past two and a half years. He is currently backpacking through all 32 Chinese provinces.
Transportation
Flights from Beijing to Haikou Airport four times daily four hours 1800 yuan
Accommodation
The Treasure Island Hotel chain in Haikou Xinglong and Sanya are popular with budget travelers desiring resortstyle comfort at economy prices Prices for a double range from 200 yuan in the offseason up to 1000 yuan during Spring Festival
www.treasureislandhotel.com
Regional cuisine
Seafood on Hainan is plentiful so prices are some of China’s cheapest. roves of street vendors come out at dusk to grill a bounty of fresh fare including various species of fish clam lobster crab squid and kelp. For desert locals enjoy gnawing on sugarcane stalks or any of the abundant fruit. And of course coconut milk is an islander’s beverage of choice chopped and chilled for only one yuan.
About the writer: TOM CARTER is the author of CHINA: Portrait of a People a definitive 600page book of photography due out winter 2007 from Hong Kong publisher Blacksmith Books.
Chateau De Vincennes And Its Park Paris
Bois de Vincennes is one of the favourite places the Parisians like to spend their time at. The park is located southwest from the centre of the city and boasts its branchy trees. Besides there are three lakes one with a boating station where visitors can rent a boat and make a small voyage on the lake. Many come to the park for a picnic and spend most of their time lying on the green grass and chatting. There are also a Four Seasons park a zoo a Buddhist centre and a summer attraction park found at Bois de Vincennes.
At about 1150 king Louis VII bought the forest and built a hunting lodge here. Next king built a bigger manor then there was a small temple erected… this way each monarch added something new that suited his tastes and ambitions most: defensive constructions rooms living and nonresidential premises etc. It was a royal residence and a royal prison a fortress and military barracks. It was the symbol of oppression and power. Much of the work to enlarge the castle was done during the 14th century. One of the things that was added to the castle at the time was its wellknown donjon remarkable for its looks size and history. The structure is the largest among the Medieval European donjons. Construction of the donjon started in 1340 by Philippe VI the first of Valois then continued by his son and finished by his grandson Charles V Le Sage. The castle became the residence for the royal family of Valois just like Versailles was the residence for the Bourbon dynasty.
Starting from the 16th century during religious wars between the Catholics and the Protestants this small country castle which by the time had turned into a huge wellreinforced stronghold served as a shelter for the nobility most of whom however preferred Castles of the Loire. In the 17th century royalties lost their interest in Vincennes as a country residence but to make some use of it they turned Chteau de Vincennes into a state prison. Many famous people were imprisoned in it. Marie de’ Medici started construction of the new classicstyle pavilion and settled there with her son future king Louis XIII during her regency. In the end of the 17th century there was the Queen’s pavilion added to the construction and this way the whole architectural ensemble got two wings the king’s and the queen’s.
The beginning of the 18th century brought another change in the castle’s specialization and for the next 20 years it served as a royal porcelain manufacture. Then the king wanted to sell it but those who lived and worked there strongly opposed to this decision and the castle stayed a symbol of royal powers which was then during the revolution distorted into the royal tyrany. During the times of the Napoleon its main function was to defend and the castle turned into a fortress. After this time of great battles and glorious victories there were barracks founded there for some time the castle also served as military headquarters. Napoleon III turned the Bois de Vincennes and its chteau into a public park.
About the writer: Hotels in Paris online hotel reservation.
